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My el-cheapo FB inlay jig. http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=11117 |
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Author: | old man [ Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:58 pm ] |
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Well, if the pictures post, I will show this thing to you. It's just a little jig to keep the base of the dremel flat and level while cutting cavities in a radiused fretboard. I used a piece of 3/4" mdf, longer than the jig part so I could clamp it to the bench, and stuck two pieces of 1/4" phenolic (about 2" wide) to it with double sided tape. They are placed to follow the taper of the fb. I needed a hair more clearance so I applied a few strips of UHMH drawer glide self stick tape on top of the phenolic. The FB is simply wedged between the phenolic sides. It works very well for cutting level and flat bottomed inlay cavities if you're using pearl or anything that won't bend. ![]() Here's my first try with this thing. ![]() I also found this really nifty router bit that cut ebony like butter. I actually bought it to try cutting the saddle slot, but when I broke my regular downcut inlay bit, I gave it a try on the board above and it worked so well, I'm going to order a passel of 'em. It is carbide and it is only $8.75 for the 1/8". They have them down to 1/32", all with 1/8" shank. Micro-Mark. ![]() The bits are here: Micro-Mark "fish tail bits" Ron |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:44 pm ] |
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Great link on the bits...about half the SM price!!! Thanks, Ron. BTW...What's a passel and how many bits fit in one? ![]() |
Author: | Dave Anderson [ Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:28 pm ] |
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Thanks Ron! I'm going for a passel myself! ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:44 pm ] |
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they didnt clog, apparently? Have you tried it in say, rosewood? I'd be interested to hear what your findings are there. I know speed, and size of the cutter come into play. I've used small dental burrs once, and they clogged. A different animal, I know. Can you give her a plow through some rosewood and let us know? Thanks Ron. Always a joy to see what yer up to! |
Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:47 pm ] |
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I like the inlays, BTW. What guitar is this for? |
Author: | old man [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:29 am ] |
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Hey, Terry I have only tried it one time, so far. It didn't clog a bit with ebony, but ebony isn't oily like rosewood, so I don't know. I'll let you know when I get a chance to try it. This guitar is a dred for a guitar pickin friend of mine.It is my first commission of sorts (building at cost) ![]() |
Author: | L. Presnall [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:34 am ] |
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I don't know if it's the bit, but that inlay looks GREAT! Nice job, and nice find! ![]() |
Author: | Terry Stowell [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:25 am ] |
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sounds wonderful, keep us posted! |
Author: | matt jacobs [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:46 am ] |
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Hey Ron There is no such thing as a "Cheapo" jig if it works! |
Author: | Anthony Z [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 2:08 am ] |
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Ron, Thanks for the pictures….that’s a slick way to cut your inlay pockets. I like the way you layed out the celtic knots. It’ll look great with the celtic knot rosette and madrose/bearclaw/ebony bindings combo. Looks to me like you’ve got a winner in the works!! What are you planning on doing on the headstock? Will you be continuing the celtic theme there as well? Good tip on the carbide bit. Did you get much edge fuzz using your bit? I use upcut spiral carbide bits for cutting inlay pockets from Drill Bit City. They also sell bits like the one you showed - 10 pc pkg for $24. The upcut spirals are dirt cheap as well (about $8 for a pkg of 10) and work well for most inlay work on ebony or rosewood as the edge fuzz can be easily sanded away. (I wouldn’t use them on maple or spruce). The cutting portion of the bit can be too long on the smaller diameter bits….to shorten them I just put one in a vise and snap a portion off. |
Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:05 am ] |
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Anthony- Do you have cat #s for the DrillBitCity sets you mentioned? I found some mixed size sets and some small # drill cutters. I always have trouble finding stuff on their site...though the products are good. Thanks John |
Author: | Anthony Z [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:09 am ] |
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John I don't have the Cat No. on hand though will have a look in my shop tonight. |
Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:36 am ] |
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Thanks, Anthony. DrillbitCity website is 'organized' in a funny way- 10pc,25pc and 'Special Tools'. I guess I just have to be patient and wander around a bit more. Cheers John |
Author: | Anthony Z [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:54 am ] |
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John the best place to look for what I think you want is in the 10 piece section. |
Author: | old man [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 6:03 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Anthony Z] Ron, Thanks for the pictures….that’s a slick way to cut your inlay pockets. I like the way you layed out the celtic knots. It’ll look great with the celtic knot rosette and madrose/bearclaw/ebony bindings combo. Looks to me like you’ve got a winner in the works!! What are you planning on doing on the headstock? Will you be continuing the celtic theme there as well? Good tip on the carbide bit. Did you get much edge fuzz using your bit? I use upcut spiral carbide bits for cutting inlay pockets from Drill Bit City. They also sell bits like the one you showed - 10 pc pkg for $24. The upcut spirals are dirt cheap as well (about $8 for a pkg of 10) and work well for most inlay work on ebony or rosewood as the edge fuzz can be easily sanded away. (I wouldn’t use them on maple or spruce). The cutting portion of the bit can be too long on the smaller diameter bits….to shorten them I just put one in a vise and snap a portion off. [/QUOTE] Anthony, there was zero fuzz. It was very clean. Ron |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 7:01 am ] |
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Looks good! I have to admit, though, that although I started with a similar setup, I currently don't bother, and just cut along with the radius on the board, and for wider pieces eyeball it/manually keep it level with the middle. Also works fine. |
Author: | Dave Rickard [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 7:07 am ] |
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Hey Ron you can show that off this weekend ![]() |
Author: | Dave Rector [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:34 am ] |
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Thanks for the pics Ron! I have to do some fretboard inlay as soon as I return from Arkansas myself. Might need to get myself a few of those bits too. |
Author: | BobK [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:41 am ] |
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I can vouch for the bits too. I tried them for the first time last weekend cutting brace notches in reverse kerf mahogany linings. 3/32 deep cut in one pass using a dremel. Cut through it like butter, no fuzz or tearout (although eir or ziricote might be a different story). BTW, Ron nice jig. Simple and effective. BobK |
Author: | Blain [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:13 am ] |
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Hey John, I think if you're looking for the carbide router bit sets at drill city, you should click on the Special Tools link (located under the 10 piece sets and the 25 piece sets at the side of the page). Once you click on that you will be taken to a page that has a couple of 10 piece carbide router bit sets. If you're looking for Cat#'s I think they are as follows: #10RM160 - for 1.60mm (.0630) #10RM240 - for 2.40mm(.0945) There may be more as well, but from a quick check, that's what I found. Good luck. |
Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:04 pm ] |
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Thanks, Blain. Good start on my next order. I can't figure out what they call the equivalent of 'fishtail' bits, but I haven't really had a good look over the site. John |
Author: | Anthony Z [ Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:49 pm ] |
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John here are the Cat#'s for the upcut end mills I spoke of earlier. 314-R10EM0625 10pc Resharpened 1/16 $15.95 315-R10EM0938 10pc Resharpened 3/32 $15.95 They've gone up by $3 since I purchased mine...still a good deal. |
Author: | Darrel Friesen [ Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:31 am ] |
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Thanks for the info Anthony. I'm just amazed that there's that many dull 1/32" bits around. I always seem to break them long before they need sharpening ![]() |
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